The newest addition to Ottawa’s expanding and diversifying Hintonburg / Wellington West Village foodie scene comes in the form of Tennessy Willems, a wood-fired oven pizza restaurant that opened last week at the corner of Wellington West and Melrose. Named after the owners’ son and daughter, Tennessy Willems charts a new course forward for pizza in Ottawa by carefully looking to the past.
Inspired by a visit to a wood-fired oven pizzeria in New England 4 years ago, that had left Lisa and Jochen Braun raving about the pizza days after their feast, the husband-wife duo sought to bring a similar culinary experience to the National Capital Region. After unsuccessfully seeking out properties in a number of neighbourhoods, a chance conversation in a tea shop on Bank Street led the two to buy the former Melrose Groceteria over a year ago from the retiring Helen and Buddy Saikely, who had run a grocery store and Lebanese lunch counter for more than 40 years.
Writing of Helen’s lunch counter just before it closed, local foodiePrints blog shared, “Just about everything is made from scratch and you are treated like family.” The same could be said about the newest incarnation of 1082 Wellington Street West. The focused menu of 20 items, split roughly between pizza and non-pizza dishes, states that, “everything is prepared in house. We fully support local farming, and use organic produce when available.” Head Chef Chris Archer, who plied his trade most recently at nearby Absinthe, and Pizzaiolo (professional pizza maker – I had to look that one up) Jason Grenier, who trained at Toronto’s famous Neapolitan-style pizzerias Libretto and Terroni, combine fresh, locally-sourced Ontario and Québec cheeses, vegetables and meats to create pizzas that are light, crisp and undeniably delicious.
Photo courtesy of Stephan Telka.
While the “Elmdale” is proving to be the most popular thus far (a combination of fire-roasted tomato sauce, spicy Italian salami, mushrooms, roasted red peppers, and fresh Mozzarella), during a recent lunch with six colleagues the historian in me was drawn to the “Helen,” a tasty Lebanese-inspired combination of spinach, carmelized onions, goats’ cheese, lemon, and roasted pine nuts that echoes a similar pizza served by Helen Saikely at her old lunch counter, and fittingly named in her honour. Through some easy bartering with a colleague, I scored myself a piece of the traditional Margherita, and was rewarded with flavourful taste of Naples, completed with an incredible fire-roasted tomato sauce (thanks Ottawa Magazine for the tip).
The atmosphere can be described as warm, cozy and friendly, with seating for perhaps 30 around tables topped with wood planks salvaged during construction on the upper floors of the building (likely milled on the nearby LeBreton Flats). On tap are Beau’s and St. Ambroise with a third on its way, while the wine list focuses on “consignment” wines (typically not found in LCBO outlets, from smaller wineries). Vegetarian options are aplenty, with gluten-free options in the works.
Photo courtesy of Stephan Telka.
While the best of winter is yet to come, the owners are hoping to open a patio when the temperature rises (and city approval is granted). Prices are reasonable – a simple Margherita without a drink will put you back $10 before tax, while the “Helen” and a glass a wine is about $23. Hours are roughly 11:30am – 10:00pm, seven days a week (save for the next two Sundays).
Reservations and take-out orders may be placed at 613-722-0000 (the number should be in service any day now).
