Post by Caitlin Carpenter.
The old adage of “head west, young man” may be backwards in Ottawa. Most areas in and around Ottawa have been thoroughly mined by locals for hidden gems. However, the communities to the east of Ottawa are often overlooked. Non-existent traffic and crowds, fresh ingredients, affordable stays, and bucolic scenery should lure Ottawans to the villages of Prescott and Russell for the perfect day trip.
Knox Fine Dining, Moose Creek
Moose Creek is probably the last place you would expect to find a fine dining restaurant, but it’s certainly the place to take the friend who’s been everywhere. The signs of the building’s former use are everywhere, including the pews which are now table seating, angelic statuary, and stained glass windows letting in warm, filtered light for that perfect romantic glow. And on Saturdays the ambiance is enhanced by the stylings of a three-piece jazz band.
Chef Gabriel Asselin has created a wide ranging menu with something to suit traditional as well as more adventurous tastes. For my main I had the popular rabbit duo. The first part of the duo was a braised leg with wild boar and a red wine gravy, and the second part was seared rabbit saddle stuffed with chicken and tarragon mousse served with a honey Dijon demi-glace.
My friend had the chicken and shrimp fettuccini with pasta by owner Paul Mayer (a former forester turned pasta-maker and restaurateur). Chef Gabriel’s philosophy is to let the ingredients speak for themselves through simple presentation and selecting a few key flavours to highlight in each dish. This was certainly evident in the pasta where the basil and sundried tomato pesto were allowed to shine without being overwhelmed by a heavy sauce or competing flavours.
Photo courtesy of Ancienne Prison L’Orignal Old Jail
Ancienne prison de L’Orignal
The centerpiece of this sleepy border town is its old jail. Constructed in 1825 in Neo-Loyalist style (think New England), the prison is claimed as the oldest prison in Ontario. When the jail was decommissioned 15 years ago, it was the only Francophone correctional centre in Ontario.
The first floor is now a modest museum with an hour-long guided tour chronicling the punishment and treatment of the inmates, including the case files for those who were sentenced to death. There are currently two additional exhibits of interest at the museum – one on nearby Caledonia Springs (a one-time hot springs spa resort) and “the pride of L’Orignal,” Duldreaggan Hall (an elegant 1805 home for Alexander Grant, the discoverer of Caledonia Springs).
There’s a small café on site (Entre deux Barreaux).
Vert Fourchette, Vankleek Hill
The self-proclaimed gingerbread capital of Ontario, Vankleek Hill presents true village living. Walking the streets, you’ll find 250 homes with some form of gingerbreading. You can enjoy a tour of some of these buildings during the Vankleek Hill and L’Orignal Doors Open event on September 28.
A good place to start a tour of the village is by getting a bird’s eye view of your surroundings at the Higginson Tower. An attractive stone column, topped by a blue aluminum crown, the tower was used as a look-out tower to spot a potential Fenian attack on its way to Ottawa. (In the mid-1800s, it was thought the Irish might try to gain independence by taking Ottawa as a bargaining chip with the British.)
The highlight of Vankleek Hill is the Vert Fourchette bakery and café. This French bistro serves gourmet poutine, croque monsieur, and a great assortment of sandwiches from pulled pork to butter chicken. In a break with small town meat and potatoes offerings, Vert Fourchette helpfully has extensive healthy and gluten-free menu sections. In the same building there is also a bakery with butter tarts, green tea brownies, and cream-cheese-frosted cinnamon buns.
If you’re looking to stay overnight before heading off, I enjoyed my stay at 10 Main Street West, a short- or long-term executive rental. This street-level unit in the heart of the village has exposed stone walls, a Queen bedroom, open concept dining and living room with a TV and pull-out couch, and a full kitchen stocked with items for a light breakfast.
Photo courtesy of Prescott-Russell United Counties
Prescott-Russell Recreational Trail
This 72-km gravel trail is long, but accessible to nearly all walkers and cyclists (and snowmobilers in the winter) thanks to its past as a railway line (railroads are built on flat land). The scenery, while peaceful rather than breathtaking, provides variety in the form of farms, forests, fields, and marshland. Starting in Hammond near the outskirts of Ottawa, the trail passes near communities such as Plantagenet and Hawkesbury. There are toilet facilities in Hammond as well as a handful of others along the trail. To get started, there’s a trail link near the intersection of Innes and Anderson roads – head south along Anderson for about a kilometre to the parking lot on your left.
If you’re looking to stop for the night in Hawkesbury, check out the Netherdale Bed & Breakfast. A homey barn conversion, this B&B is found on a few dozen acres of countryside, perfect for taking a morning stroll after enjoying a filling homemade breakfast.
Photo courtesy of Mariposa Farm.
Mariposa Duck Farm, Plantagenet
Trade the honks of cars heard on the patios of Ottawa restaurants for the honks of geese at this Plantagenet farm. Open for lunch on Sundays, the menu offers three options for each of three courses. Mouth-watering choices include cauliflower and lamb soup, a grilled bbq bison steak with pulled pork mashed potatoes with black pepper aoli and duck reduction, or a maple mustard duck confit leg with a side of spaetzel and rhubarb reduction. Herbs and veggies are added to plates depending on what is available in the farm garden that day. Finish off your meal with offerings such as a Quebec artisan cheese plate, a fruit tart, or berry bread pudding.
To feed their pigs, scraps from Ottawa restaurants are picked up once a week. While the meat is raised free of hormones, chemical products, and preservatives, some animal lovers may want to avoid the foie gras heavily featured on the menu.
The ambiance is casual and the décor is country simple, in keeping with its setting. The three-course lunch is $45 per person and $20 for kids under 12. Cash or credit only, and reservations are recommended.
There is also a farm store on Friday through Sunday, selling cassoulet, sausage, pâté, quail, venison, pork, duck, dried mushrooms, and preserves. There are also cooking classes offered by Chef Matthew Shepheard in the spring and summer.
Caitlin Carpenter runs Days Out Ontario, a trip planning and travel blog.
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