One of Ottawa’s most creative restaurants is about to hit a major milestone.
Ten years is a big deal in the restaurant industry. Running a restaurant has never been easy, but the challenge ramped up exponentially in the last few years. The owners of Fauna Food + Bar are no strangers to challenge, though. The struggle they faced to open their doors is the stuff of local legend.
If you’re not in the know, here’s the TLDR: after turning the space at 425 Bank St. from an old shoe shop into a gorgeous, hip restaurant in 2012, Fauna’s ownership team found themselves at odds with their landlords. Threats, intimidation, and being locked out of the property all followed before everything culminated in a massive, destructive flood that cost thousands of dollars and would see Fauna open its doors two years after scheduled.
When those doors finally opened, Fauna was met with immediate interest and praise for its chic minimalist interior and creative cuisine. “It was great to finally be open,” recalls owner and executive chef Jon Svazas, “and it meant so much that people liked what we were doing.”
“That first year, we were constantly busy,” agrees chef de cuisine and co-owner Billy Khoo. “People were banging down the doors and the reviews were good. But we weren’t nearly out of the woods yet.”
Svasas and Khoo of Fauna. Photo: Sarah Farmer /Gumption Studio
“The legal fees and replacing all the stuff we lost, I’m sure people don’t realize that stuff sucked all the profit out of the restaurant until recently,” says Svazas. “On one hand, we own the building now, so we’re not going anywhere. On the other, there’s been a lot of hardship making it to this point.”
From day one, Fauna was super committed to offering something that was different from what the city was used to seeing. They really put their money where their mouth was, letting me go 100% natural [wines] on their opening list. Fauna was one of the first Ottawa restaurants to really go outside the box, and they keep improving. I think they’re better now than they’ve ever been. –Alex McMahon, former wine director at Fauna and owner of Arlo
Svazas and Khoo, who met while working at Taylor’s Genuine Kitchen and Wine, are nostalgic while remembering those early days. “Getting on the top 100 list numerous times, our good showings at Gold Medal Plates, getting invited to cook at [The James] Beard House, those are all things I’m proud of,” says Khoo.
Making it to the ten-year mark in an industry that’s often so volatile means a lot to us. We’re grateful to still be in business, to be a place where people come not just to celebrate milestones, but for memorable experiences every night of the week. –Julian Bernard, head bartender at Fauna and co-owner of Clawfoot Stills
In the following years, Fauna found its groove. The restaurant matured, guests became regulars, and Svazas and Khoo refined their cuisine. “Originally, we wanted to be a small plates restaurant,” says Svazas. “Each person would have gotten three-four dishes, and a table of two could’ve potentially sampled the whole menu.”
“The dishes were always meant to be shared, but that never really caught on,” continues Khoo. “Your guests have a hand in defining who you are as a restaurant. Our food has evolved. We’ve figured out what we like, and what we’re good at, which lets us branch out and try new things.”
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It’s no secret that you need passion, drive, and the ability to sacrifice to run a high-end restaurant. Svazas, Khoo, and Jon’s brother Ken, have basically lived at the restaurant since its doors opened. While Jon and Billy primarily handle the kitchen, ordering and scheduling, Ken handles payroll, manages the floor, and is notably responsible for Fauna’s famous ‘A Choired Taste’ events, which bring a younger crowd.
What I remember most is how fun and creative the atmosphere was. Every idea was explored and every prep day went hand in hand with team singalongs. –Stef Scrivens, former Fauna pastry chef and C.O.O. at Tablz
Svazas and Khoo credit being on-site, sharing all the operational duties, not just in the kitchen as one of the things that got them to this milestone.
“We’ve been really lucky to have had a lot of consistently great staff over the years,” says Khoo. “Some have been with us since day one, and that’s not super common in this industry. Having a good team helps you deal with all the problems that you never thought you’d have to deal with.”
One of the biggest issues was the pandemic and subsequent fallout from 2020. Fauna and many other restaurants of its ilk continue to have to change, adapt, and figure things out on the fly, as things still haven’t returned to the way they were.
“Getting the building was a huge win for us,” says Svazas. “I honestly don’t know if we’d still be here had we been renting.”
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It wasn’t all victories though, as Svazas was forced to close his second Hintonburg restaurant in January of 2021. “Closing [Bar] Laurel is still my biggest regret, even if it was the right thing to do,” he says. “The place was small and intimate to begin with, and with the restrictions what they were, I just couldn’t have paid the bills. I wish I could have held out, I’m still not 100% over it.”
For a decade, there’s always been a smile ready to greet you, a mindfully mapped-out menu featuring local ingredients, and an unparalleled beverage selection. –Jenna Portelance, former Fauna server and winery liaison at Pearl Morissette Estate Winery
Though the business is as tough as ever, Svazas and Khoo have stuck to their guns. Fauna is still known for its creative food, eclectic wines, and warm service. It’s only recently, approaching this landmark anniversary that they’ve been able to take a step back and focus on their personal lives.
“My kids are becoming teenagers,” says Svazas. “I want to know them, and for them to know me. Plus, I’m 47; I can’t keep working the line forever.”
“I’ve slowed down a bit, too,” agrees Khoo. “I’m spending more time with my wife, on hobbies and sports, taking care of my health. One positive thing to come from the last several years is better focus on work-life balance.”
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So, what will the next ten years hold for Fauna? “Did you ever see The Menu?” jokes Khoo.
“Making it ten years is a definite source of pride in this industry,” says Svazas. “I hope we can keep up with the standards we’ve set and steer it to a positive ending.”
“Not that we’re saying we’re going away, not by any stretch of the imagination,” Khoo quickly adds. “But when you hit ten years, it feels like you beat the game and get to work on the side quests.”
It takes a lot to keep something like this going, it’s a weird, intricate machine. If we can keep true to ourselves until we just can’t do it anymore, I’d say that’s a win. –Jon Svazas
In the immediate future, Fauna will hold a celebration event Oct. 26-27, where they’ll feature a ten-course ‘greatest hits’ menu, letting longtime fans and newcomers experience some of the restaurant’s most iconic dishes from over the years.
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Even though it doesn’t sound like Fauna is going anywhere soon, why wait? See for yourself why this Ottawa favourite is still going strong after a decade. Nothing seems to be able to stop Fauna and I, for one, believe that the city’s dining scene is all the better for it.
Fauna is located at 425 Bank St. Follow them on Instagram @faunaottawa or visit their website for reservations.
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