Always starving, always thirsty, always writing. Aspiring sommelier and food aficionado studying media and film at Carleton University in the capital, Aryn Pepper can also be found on her blog, Vino Vidii Vicii (v.v.v.).
Culturally, food was meant to be shared. For centuries, people of the world have gathered friends, feasted, and crushed drink upon drink. This civilizing spirit is kept strong and mixed in a cocktail within a gorgeous mezzanine in the nations capital: Sidedoor Contemporary Kitchen and Bar.
Upon approaching Sidedoor through one of Byward Market’s curious courtyards, one is welcomed by a sublime geometric glass dome held steadfast by stone walls. “It looks small,” my grandmother announced. Something must’ve caught her tongue, as she cut herself off suddenly as we entered. It might have been the five storied levels of group seating, mirrored walls, incomprehensibly high ceilings, or open-concept kitchen…who knows.
We’re lead to a four-person table on the highest tier in the restaurant, overlooking the rest of Sidedoor’s kingdom. The whimsical recycled glass bottle chandelier hanging at par with our level gave a sense of deconstruction and craft. Our server hands out menus and explains the concept:
Everything on the menu has been created especially for sharing. They encourage you to order multiple items and create your own experience, whether it be a low-key evening of toothsome Chef’s feature tacos and beer, a ritzy evening of house cocktails and butter poached lobster in green curry or, hell, a splash of both.
Sidedoor’s bill of fare is an innovative contemporary Eastern-inspired menu filled with green curries, sashimi, tofu options, tacos, papaya, and lemongrass. A particularly interesting component is their slow roasted turkey with fresh cranberry and parsnip salad, a sort of holiday stand out dish amongst Thai and fresco Mexican dishes. It was sliced carefully for optimal sharing, and I relish it as the juiciest turkey I have ever tasted in the most unlikely a place.
Once our meal was finished and our wine bottles dry, we had all managed to try at least 80% of the menu in one evening, having portioned and fabricated our own experiences at Sidedoor with the careful guidance and culinary expertise of executive chef Johnathan Korecki.
I am certain that Ottawa’s taco craze was started by current executive chef Johnathan Korecki, and previous executive chef Matt Carmichael, at Sidedoor Contemporary Kitchen. Sidedoor opened in 2011 by the owners of Ei8teen and Social. The restaurant was highly anticipated by publications such as Ottawa Magazine and local food lovers. Carmichael is the capital’s resident culinary postmodern artist, and highly inspired and creative Korecki skyrocketed to win third runner-up in Top Chef Canada season two, Ottawa’s first and only top contestant in Top Chef history. He is a visionary in converging Thai dishes with modern western cuisine and sharing plate concept. An evening not to be missed by any Ottawa native or visitor.
Sidedoor Contemporary Kitchen and Bar also offers a lighter lunch menu featuring their clever “lunch box”, which consists of a daily soup and salad and your choice of taco. Personally, I recommend the green papaya salad with either tuna sashimi or crispy tofu, as well as the Thai beef carpaccio.
As we bid farewell to the softly lit subterranean kitchen and bar, young food enthusiasts begin to flood the main entrance. The music is slowly turned up, and what I believe to be the entertainment of the evening begins. I will undoubtedly return, for the ambrosial food, dark and stormy music, modern ambiance, and whatever party I likely missed that imposing evening.
Sidedoor is located at 18B York Street in the market. It’s open Monday to Friday for lunch and dinner (11:45 – 14:00, 16:30 – 2:00) and weekends from 16:30 – 2:00. For reservations, call 613-562-9331.
