Not every restaurant gets to turn 15 years old. Heck, many don’t even get to celebrate their 5- or 10-year marks. This past June however, a little powerhouse on Elgin Street celebrated its crystal anniversary. I’m of course referring to Town — the homey, cozy, funky little joint beloved by many Ottawa foodies.
If you ask folks what comes to mind when you mention Town, you’ll get answers like “welcoming,” “friendly,” and “meatballs” (we’ll get to them, don’t worry.) But the most common answer is “Marc ‘n’ Lori,” referring to the restaurant’s owners. Marc Doiron and Lori Wojcik, partners in business as well as in life, are the well known faces of Town (and its sister restaurant, Citizen).
Marc Doiron and Lori Wojcik, Photo Remi Thériault
Of course, that’s not how they’d tell it.
“One of our biggest points of pride is how long we retain staff here, and how many people come back to us after being away, or working somewhere else,” says Wojcik. “Everyone that’s worked here, even our long-time regulars – they’re all faces of Town. We never wanted it to be just about us.”
Both hardworking and humble, Doiron and Wojcik saved for 10 years to open Town just the way they wanted it. Returning to Ottawa from a brief stint working and living in Halifax, Doiron took a position as pastry chef of the Rideau Club, while Wojcik put her background in art restoration and history to use as the manager of a gallery.
On June 25th, 2010, Town first opened its doors onto Elgin Street, delighting diners from the get-go with its finely crafted, contemporary take on modern Italian cuisine, through the lens of Ottawa Valley produce.
Doiron fondly remembers some favourites from the opening menu, such as the Chicken Under a Brick, but it was Town’s signature meatballs that would become the restaurant’s enduring signature dish.
View this post on Instagram
“I didn’t expect it to be the signature item,” says Doiron. “I wanted it to be the ‘hamburger’ of the menu. You could come in for some meatballs and a glass of wine or a beer. The originals were stuffed with ricotta – but people actually wanted more meatball [in their meatball], so that got scrapped.”
“We realized they were the signature item when Marc tried to take them off the menu,” recalls Wojcik. “We have a guy that just makes meatballs for three days a week. They’re a big job around here!”
“Town to me will always be a place that changed the restaurant landscape in Ottawa.” – Juan Lopez Luna, chef/owner Alma & Bar Luz (MTL)
Things went well at Town for some time. The restaurant put together a terrific team and grew into a real neighbourhood hotspot. Positive reviews, word of mouth, a constantly evolving menu, and friendly, attentive service brought diners from all over the city. People couldn’t wait to see what was next.
So, when it was announced that a sister restaurant, Citizen, was in the works, and would be just around the corner from Town, the buzz was high.
“Citizen, at first, was going to be a cocktail bar,” recalls Doiron. “We had kind of established our groove by then, so once we got the okay from the landlord, it only took us about a year to get that second space up and running.”
“The physical proximity helped, of course,” adds Wojcik. “We split an already small kitchen in half for two separate menus… I don’t know how we did it.”
Photo Remi Thériault
Citizen opened on Jan. 6, 2017, indeed with its own menu, cocktail list, and vibe. The food was more globally inspired and often plant focused, helping to carve a niche all for itself in the area.
In late 2018, the massive Elgin Street construction project began, and for the next two years, Doiron and Wojcik could only watch from the windows as the pavement was torn up in front of their little shop, hindering foot traffic and dissuading drivers from the area.
“We knew it was happening, but no one was prepared for just how long it took,” recalls Doiron. “At one point there was just this giant pit directly in front of us, nobody could get in. We called the city, and someone came by and put down a couple of wood planks to get to the door. It was like walking a tightrope. But thankfully, our neighbours and regulars braved that tightrope and got us through.”
The construction would prove to be the first in a one-two punch of hardships as only one week after its completion in March 2020, the world locked down.
“It was tough on us,” says Wojcik. “Town became a bottle shop for a while, we did takeout, and when we reopened, we combined the menus – half Town-style, half Citizen-style, no more splitting the kitchen. But we learned a lot, too.”
“Oddly enough, when we reopened, we felt like if we got through that, we could get through anything,” says Doiron. “ We felt like we weathered a storm, and now we could make future decisions without some of the fears that owners tend to have.”
Lori Wojcik and Marc Doiron. Photo Remi Thériault
This willingness to get things done and stay positive in the face of hardship are values that Doiron and Wojcik do their best to pass on to all who work with them.
“What sets them apart is how they treat their staff like family. They curated a workplace that embraces creativity and exploration, allowing employees to develop and hone their crafts.” – Elana Levitan, former manager/wine director Town/Citizen
“I think one of our strongest skills is identifying what we’re not good at, and hiring people who are good at it,” says Wojcik. “If a team member has a passion for something, we let them run with it. They then create a space they want to be in. They can take ownership and in turn, give better hospitality.”
With everything happening to our world right now, it feels like places to genuinely connect are becoming scarce. We’re losing bookstores, cafés, even retail outlets. Restaurants and bars are some of the last places that people can congregate.
“It’s nice that we can provide a place where a group of six can come in and have some wine, be together and reconnect,” says Doiron.
After 15 years, two restaurants, and more ups and downs than one can count, what can we expect next from Town/Citizen?
“We’re just going to keep doing what works for us,” says Doiron. “We’ve established a great environment and routine for us, our staff, and our guests. That’s something we’re proud of every day.”
“To be able, as independents, to create a place for people to work and use their talents is so important,” adds Wojcik. “It’s nice to be able to be able to give people an outlet to express their passions. And we’ve been lucky enough to have been doing that for 15 years now.”
Here’s to 15 years, Town, Marc, and Lori. And to many, many more.
View this post on Instagram
Town is located at 296 Elgin St. Follow them on Instagram @townlovesyou or visit towncitizen.ca/ for reservations.
.gif)
