That’s right, a watered-down sake joint with style. What do I mean by this? Well after educating myself on the traditional izakaya sake shops, I can safely say that Izakaya Asian Kitchen and Bar (339 Elgin st.) really isn’t an izakaya at all, although it does have an inviting atmosphere, tasty drinks and satisfying menu (hence the bit about style). Will this restaurant’s weak relation to tradition deter customers? No. Will they still enjoy their visit? Absolutely – but it depends on what they order. Read Foodie Print’s Izakaya review for a great detailed description of the traditional izakaya.
I’ve eaten at Izakaya twice now – once shortly after its opening and once a month later. Both visits were marked by wonderful customer service. I was genuinely greeted on my way in, promptly seated and kindly greeted on my way out. My first server was calm, gentle and welcoming. My second server was equally welcoming and helpful. My first experience was positive all around – great ambiance, strong service, and good food. My second time was less positive, with several of my dinner mates feeling unsatisfied with their dishes’ flavours.
The Asian bar’s well-respected Chef Michael Radford has put together a strong, simple menu. It has just enough sides and variety of small and large plates – not too overwhelming. Radford is most known for his work at the now closed Savana Café, but honed his skills at the refined E18hteen under Chef Matt Carmichael. You can spot some Caribbean influences from Savana in Izakaya’s coconut pumpkin soup (shiitake, kafir lime, sweet basil – $7), grilled plantain – $5, and jerk chicken (Cornish hen, fried plantain, chutney – $18).
During my first experience I was disappointed (but only for a minute) about the lack of sushi. I’ve since learned that sushi isn’t traditionally served at an izakaya, so shame on me for even hoping for a dynamite roll or two. My disappointment, however, was quickly replaced with satisfaction after enjoying Izakaya’s lobster and mango summer roll (avocado, cucumber, herbs, sweet chile fish sauce – $17). It was light, fresh and just what I needed to kick-start my appetite. I thoroughly enjoyed the scallop ceviche (lime, coconut, jalapeno, avocado, cucumber – $14). It may have been a tad too acidic but the scallops were juicy and tender and the whole experience was a citrus explosion in my mouth. I finished off with a side of ginger fried bok choi that was nicely cooked with a bit of crunch to it and a subtle sauce. For dessert, I enjoyed Izakaya’s take on fried donuts and to my delight, they weren’t heavy or oily at all.
My second visit was over dinner with friends. I had the Korean beef bowl (grilled shortrib, kimchi, lettuce, poached egg, rice – $15) but others ordered the basil shrimp vermicelli (tamarind, thai basil, tomatoes, ginger, shallot – $15), udon carbonara (crispy pork belly, edamame, parmesan, egg – $15), Thai caesar salad (grilled romaine, sesame crouton, kafir lime dressing, parmesan – $12) and black bean chicken stir fry (asparagus, preserved lemon, baby corn – $16). I quite liked the variety of food in my beef bowl and the added spice but one friend found the basil shrimp vermicelli to be bland, another was underwhelmed by the carbonara sauce and another turned off all together with the black bean stir fry. The general complaint was a lack of diverse flavours and punch. None of the dishes wowed anyone’s’ taste buds but the Thai Caesar salad was a hit. I had a taste and liked Redford’s take on an old classic. The presentation was unique with the romaine lettuce being served in its entirety, stock and all, acting as a secondary bowl for the salad’s innards. All of the dishes were nicely presented and I’m hopeful that Radford and his team can play around with seasoning and spices to add new dimensions to their promising dishes.
Izakaya scores big in décor. Guests are wrapped in a warm blanket of chocolate brown walls accented with Chinese posters from the 1920’s and highlighted with beautiful copper lanterns. The open space is anchored by a large, square bar laid with a beautiful wooden bar top and surrounded by comfortable high chairs. The space was nicely crowded and filled with smooth DJ tunes. The Asian fusion restaurant’s clientele is a growing number of young, stylish professionals eager to relax over small plates, good drinks and laughter. Izakaya has an easy elegance and confident current – most likely from Redford’s stellar resume and reputation.
I’m no culinary expert so take my word for what it is. But I think you’ll enjoy Izakaya Asian Kitchen and Bar if you’re looking for a nice meal in a great space, surrounded by a vibrant crowd. Don’t be fooled and come if you’re eager for a small sake bar with traditional izakaya dishes and charm. Misleading in name, Izakaya isn’t what its namesake implies but it should delight all the same.
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